Shoe



April 20, 1937.

A F. FILSINGER SHOE 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Oct. 2, 1956 0 olwc) 0min u Patented Apr. 29, 1937 EPAT Application October 2,

1 Claim.

This invention appertains to welt shoes, and to a novel method and process of constructingthe same.

In welt shoes, a relatively heavy insole is used, this insole is slit or channeled to form a raised lip so that the upper and welt can be sewed thereto. The insoles are exceedingly expensive and the operation of channeling and forming the lip adds to the cost of manufacture. In some instances, it is necessary to reinforce the lip by canvas to prevent the tearing of the lip during the inseaming operation, and this adds further to the cost of the shoe. Other disadvantages are also had with the use of ordinary insoles, such as the reduction of the flexibility of the shoe and liability of not forming the lip on the true outline or shape desired.

It is, therefore, one of the primary objects of my invention to provide a Welt shoe having an insole, which will also form the sock lining, formed from exceedingly light material, such as upper leather, with the edge thereof turned outwardly to form a flange or lip to which the upper and welt is sewed, so that an exceedingly inexpensive and flexible shoe will be had.

Another salient object of my invention is the provision of means whereby a shoe can be made with any material as an insole, regardless of weight, which is strong enough to hold an inreaming stitch.

A further object of my invention is the provision of a novel attachment for the last, whereby the light insole can be effectively handled to "vermit the insearning operation Without the tearg of the material, and to permit the forming of a well-shaped shoe.

A further important object of my invention is the provision of a removable insert or pattern for effectively holding the insole material on the ast without stretching and for defining the fold or the flange or lip to which the welt and upper sewed, so as to create a positive or desired shape.

With these and other objects in view, the invention consists in the novel construction, arrangement, and formation of parts, as will be hereinafter more specifically described, claimed, and illustrated in the accompanying drawings, in which drawings:

Figure 1 is a top plan view of a last constructed in accordance with my invention.

Figure 2 is a transverse sectional view through the last, taken substantially on the line 2 of 55 Figure 1, looking in the direction of the arroW$-- 1936, Serial No. 103,659

Figure 3 is a side elevational view ofa last with the insole held thereon by the removable insert or hold-down, parts of the figure being shown broken away and in section. I

Figure 4 is a fragmentary longitudinal sectional view through the last, with the upper lastedin place and sewed together with the welt to the flange formed on the margin of the insole.

Figure 5 is an enlarged, fragmentary detail view, showing the shoe after the trimming operation.

Figure 6 is a longitudinal sectional view through a last and shoe, showing a modified proc ess of carrying out my invention.

Figure '7 is a fragmentary transverse sectional view through a completed shoe made in accordance with my process.

Referring to the drawings in detail, wherein similar reference characters designate corresponding parts throughout the several views, the letter L generally indicates a last utilized in constructing my shoe. This last can be of substantially the ordinary character, with the exception that I form a marginal rib ill thereon, which has a thickness equal to the thickness of the material which is to be used as the combination insole and sock lining.

The rib I0 can be formed on the last or secured thereto'in any desired manner, and for the purpose of illustration I have shown the rib held on the last by means of tacks II. The rib l0 forms a permanent part of the last, and the purpose thereof will more fully appear as the description proceeds.

As heretofore brought out, with my method I can utilize any material as an insole which is strong enough to hold an inseam stitch, regardloss of weight. Thus, if desired, I can use upper leather as the insole.

The first step in my process of forming the new welt shoe consists in placing the insole 52 formed from the light material on the face of the last against the inner edge of the marginal rib i0. then utilize a relatively stiff insert, pattern, or hold-down I3, which also has a thickness substantially equal to the thickness of the rib l0 and the thickness of the material used for the insole.

The outer edge of the insert it follows the Shape of the contour of the last and the rib id, but it is formed smaller than the last and rib, so that the material from which the insole is formed can extend between the rib It and the insert. After the insert l3 has been properly disposed on the last, removable tacks 14 are employed for temporarily holding the insert l3 and the insole [2 in place.

The rib l and the insert l3 form an accurate means to permit the folding back of the margin of the insole to provide the attaching flange or lip [5. As the lipor flange l5 has to follow the contour of the insert l3, a positive shape or outline will be given the lip or flange, which will bring about the making of the desired and properly shaped shoe.

After the insole and insert have been secured in place and the flange has been turned outwardly, as shown in Figure 3, the upper I6 can be lasted over the last L and rib l0, after which the upper edge and the welt II are secured by inseam stitching l8 to the lip or flange l5.

When the inseaming operation has taken place, then the edges of the flange or lip IS, the upper, and the welt can be trimmed down close to the inseaming stitching [8, as at H! (referring to Figure 5 of the drawings).

After the inseaming and trimming operations have been performed, the shoe can be handled and the other operations performed in the ordinary way.

Some manufactures may object to utilizing a special form of last to fabricate the shoe, and in such instances, the rib l0 can be eliminated. Where the rib I0 is eliminated, theshoe is constructed in a slightly different manner, and I then utilize inner and outer removable sections 20 and 2|. The section 20 takes the exact outline of the last and provides means to build up the last to compensate for the thinness of the material used in the insole.

When the inner section 20 has been placed on the last, then the insole 22 is placed on the upper face of the section 20, and the top section 2| is accurately placed on the outer face of the insole.

40 These three parts are then secured to the last 45 be easily turned outwardly on the insole.

in any preferred manner, such as by tacks 23.

The outer section 2| forms a pattern and terminates inwardly of the inner section 20 and provides a guide whereby a flange or lip 24 can The pattern in this method also accurately defines the shape or outline of the flange or lip 2 After the lip 24 has been folded outwardly, then the upper 25 is lasted in place and the edge of the upper, with the welt 26, is secured by the inseam stitching 21 to the flange or lip 24.

When the inseaming operation has been completed, then the edges of the insole, upper, and welt can be trimmed down close to the inseam stitches. After these operations have been completed, the outer section 2! is removed from the shoe, and the shoe is completed in accordance with accepted shoe manufacturing steps. When the shoe is removed from the last, the inner sec- 60 tion 20 can be removed from the shoe.

and the inner section 20 can be utilized over and over again.

In Figure 7 I have shown an outsole or Wear sole 28 secured to the welt by means of stitching 29.

By my process I am enabled to utilize a cheap material for the insole, and this material, owing to its extreme thinness, creates a shoe or maximum flexibility, and the shoe is given a positive and desired shape.

In the drawings, I have eliminated the showing of the shoe lining, counter, toe boxes, and the like, in order to simplify the understanding of the invention, but it is to be understood that these parts can be utilized when necessary or preferred.

My process entirely eliminates the sock lining and heel padding of shoes, as the inseaming which is ordinarily sewed to form a portion of the insole, in my shoe is sewed to that portion which, after the last is removed from the shoe, creates the sock lining of the shoe and acts both as a sock lining and an insole in the shoe.

My construction facilitates the use of an exceedingly light material, which heretofore was impossible to use, because in bed lasting the toe and heel seat, an extremely light material could not be handled, due to the fact that in the construction of the shoe, the machines working on the shoe would ruin it in the making.

In my process I so reinforce this light insole material with my insert or hold-down that as the shoe is being inseamed, it so anchors the material that it creates a shape which is as positive as the exact outlines of the last. due to the raised marginal part of the last and the insert which holds the material and creates a more nearly perfect outline than a heavy channeled insole.

In use of my construction on heeled shoes or shoes which must carry shanks, a fibre may be used from the back of the insole to the ball of the last, the same as in other types of shoes. When my construction is used on spring heeled shoes without shanks, it is ideal.

Changes in details may be made without departing from the spirit or'the scope of my invention, but what I claim as new is:

The process of constructing a shoe which consists in utilizing an insole of extremely thin material, placing said insole on a last having a marginal raised edge, placing an insert of predetermined form and less width and length than said last and of a smaller size than the inner edge of the marginal raised portion of the last on the insole, and securing the insert and insole on the last against movement, turning up the marginal edge of the insole between the insert and the marginal raised portion of the last, and securing an upper and a welt to the upturned portion. of the insole.

ADOLPH F. FILSINGER.

This is 

